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URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON.
CHAPTER I.
BEFORE 1296.
The Early Ages.—Physical and Climatic Changes.—Early Man. —The Caledonii.—The Picts.—Urchard in Moravia.—The Legendary Origin of Loch Ness.—The Children of Uisneach. —The Wars of the Picts.—The End of their Kingdom.— Incursions of the Norse.—Monie, Son of the King of Scandi navia.—The Conflict of Craigmonie.—The Risings of the Moraymen.—Conachar in Urquhart.—The Big Dog and the Wild Boar.—Origin of the Forbeses, Mackays, and Urquharts. —The Harrying of the Church Lands.—The Pope’s Pro tection to the Church of Urquhart.—Gillespic MacScolane’s Deeds and Death.—Urquhart Granted to Thomas Durward. —Sir Alan Durward.—Dispute regarding Church Lands.— The Settlement.—Sir Alan’s Death.—The Cummings.
“ I bend mine eye,” sings the Gaelic bard, “ on the ages fled ; seen but in slender gleams is all that was —like to the glimmer of a sickly moon on water winding through the glen.”1 And as it was in the days of the bard, so it is even now ; for slender,
1 “ Tha mo shealladh air linnte a dh’aom, Cha’n fhaicear ach caol na bh’ann— Mar dhearrsa na geallaich tha faoin, Air linne tha claon ’s a’ ghleann.”
—Ossian : “ Cath Loduinn.”
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2 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON.
indeed, and few, are the gleams that cheer the student of the past on his dark journey through the early ages. In the beginning, says our oldest Book, the earth was without form, and void ; and Geology tells how, during the slow course of im measurable time, it assumed its present aspect— how the rocks were made, the mountains raised, the valleys formed, and the sea divided from the dry land. In the process great changes came over the face of the earth. Not to go beyond our own Scot land, the land at one time rose high above the ocean : at another, it sank deep beneath its waves.1 For untold ages it was exposed to the scorching rays of a tropical sun : for another period of perhaps equal duration it lay buried under an overwhelming weight of ice, that crushed its rocks and rounded its mountain sides.2 The marks of these great changes still remain ; but there is little or no trace of its earliest inhabitants. We are almost into modern times before we get the first glimpse of man as he slowly emerges from a state scarcely higher than that of the beasts of the field. Follow ing him down through the centuries, we are able to trace his progress by such landmarks as the use of weapons and implements—at first made of stone, and thereafter, as his knowledge
1 The margin of a lake, which in former ages covered the lower portions of Urquhart, is still seen in the beautiful terrace which almost surrounds the Strath.
2 Deep ice markings on the rocks beyond Achtuie indicate the course of one great glacier which passed over the ridge from the direction of Strone Point, and of another which came down the Glen, from the direction of Corrimony.
URN AND BRONZE BLADE FOUND AT BALNALICK (BLADE NATURAL SIZE).
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH.
3
widens, of bronze or of iron ;1 the abandonment of the natural caves of the earth for habitations built with his own hands ; and the cultivation of the soil for the production of food for himself and the animals which he has tamed for his service. There is no written record of the earlier ages. For the first references to the inhabitants of the Highlands we must search the pages of certain Latin authors who derived their knowledge of them from the Roman soldiers who served the Cæsars in Britain. From Lucan and other writers of the first century we learn that in their time our part of the island was inhabited by the Caledonian Britons (Caledonii Britanni), the same who valiantly opposed the legions of Agricola at the battle of Mons Grampius. We gather from the geographer Ptolemy, who flourished about the year 120, that, in his day, the country extending from Loch Long (Lemannonius Sinus) to the Beauly Firth (Varar Æstuarium2), and embracing the glens which now bear the names of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, was peopled by the Caledonii, one of several tribes into which the Cale donian Britons were then divided ; and in the time of Severus (a.d. 208), those tribes were combined into two nations—Caledonii and Mœatœ—which, a century later, appear under the general name of
1 Numerous stone implements have been found in the Parish. In 1887 a beautiful bronze blade was found in a sepulchral urn at Balnalick, for a description of which (by Mr Angus Grant) see Proc. of Society of Antiq. of Scot., 1887-8.
2 The name Varar (the same as Forne) still survives in the River Farrar, and Glen Strathfarrar—the Glen of the Strath of Farrar.
4 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON.
Picti, a name well known and much dreaded during the latter years of the Roman occupation. North of the Grampians were the Northern Picts. The Southern Picts inhabited the country lying to the south and east of that range. Those divisions were again subdivided into provinces, the most noted of which was Muireb or Moray, which extended, on the one hand, from the Spey to the Forne or Beauly, and, on the other, from the Moray Firth to Lochaber. In Moray was situated that district the history of which this book is to tell—the “ Urchard in Moravia,” and “ Urquhart in Murrayland,” of former writers.
The legendary element bulks largely in the early story of the district. Once upon a time, says one pretty myth, the great glen which now lies under the waters of Loch Ness was a beautiful valley, sheltered from every blast by high mountains, clothed with trees and herbs of richest hues. This vale was covered with verdant pasture, over which roamed the flocks of the people ; and through it flowed a majestic river, in which was found every fish good for the food of man. Although the people were many, peace and friendship prevailed. The women plied the distaff, and their homes and children they did not forsake ; and when the men did not hunt the boar in the forest they chased the deer on the mountain, and when they did not chase the deer on the mountain they tended their cattle on the plain.
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH. 5
There was a spring in this happy vale which was blessed by Daly the Druid, and whose waters were ever afterwards an unfailing remedy for every disease. This holy well was protected from pollu tion by a stone placed over it by the Druid, who enjoined that whenever the stone was removed for the drawing of water, it should be immediately replaced. “ The day on which my command is disregarded,” said he, “ desolation will overtake the land.” The words of Daly were remembered by the people, and became a law among them ; and so day succeeded day, and year gave place to year.
But on one of the days a woman left the child of her bosom by the fireside, and went to the well to draw water. No sooner did she remove the stone from its place than the cry reached her ear that the child had moved towards the fire. Rushing to the house, she saved the infant—but she forgot the word of the Druid, and omitted to replace the stone. The waters rose and overflowed the vale ; and the people escaped to the mountains and filled the air with lamentation, and the rocks echoed back the despairing cry—Tha loch ’nis ann, tha loch ’nis ann—“ There is a lake now, there is a lake now !” And the lake remained, and it is called Loch-Nis to this day.1
The Tales of the Sons of Uisneach account other wise for the name of the Loch. In the days of Conachar MacNessa, who was King of Ulster in the first century, there lived in Ireland a man of the
1 Loch-Nis : so written in Gaelic ; pronounced Loch-Neesh.
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name of Colum Cruitire, whose daughter Deirdire, or Dearduil, was the most beautiful woman of her age. “ She was the fairest drop of blood between earth and sun, and there never was born in Ireland a drop of blood so fair as she.” Conachar resolved to make this daughter of beauty his wife. “ Give me but a year and a day in my maidenhood,” said she ; and her request was granted. Before the end of the year and a day, who visited the King but his cousins Naois, Aillean, and Ardan, the renowned sons of Uisneach ? Naois fell in love with Dearduil, and Dearduil loved Naois ; and, accompanied by Aillean and Ardan, they fled together to Scotland. On the shore of Loch Naois (Loch Ness) they built a tower, from the window of which they could slay the salmon, and from the door the bounding stag ; and here they for a season lived in safety and happiness. But their retreat became known to Conachar, and he sent Farquhar Mac-Ro to them with an assurance of his friendship and an invitation to a great feast which he was about to give. Dear- duil foreboded evil, and entreated Naois not to go ; but he would not listen to her, and they all accom panied Farquhar Mac-Ro to Ireland. The King’s promises were fair, but his heart was false ; and the Sons of Uisneach were treacherously slain, and their bodies laid in one grave. Then Dearduil looked into the open grave and said—“ Let Naois of my love move to one side : let Aillean press close to Ardan : if the dead could only hear, you would make room for me.” And the dead did make room
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH. 7
for her ; and she, laying herself by her husband’s side, expired ! But the King would not have Naois and Dearduil lie in the same grave, and he caused her to be buried on the opposite bank of an adjoining stream ; and a tender pine sprang out of the grave of Naois, and another out of the grave of Dearduil, and the pines grew and joined above the stream.1
Although the Children of Uisneach were thus slain, their fame did not die in Alban ; and as the name of Naois is borne by Loch Ness, the river Ness, and Inverness, so does the vitrified fort of Dun-Dearduil, on the Stratherrick side of the lake, bear that of his faithful Darthula.2
The Romans, whose dominion never extended over the territory of the Northern Picts, were forced, in the year 410, for ever to quit Britain ; and for the next century and a half the history of the North of Scotland is hidden in impenetrable mists. When the clouds rise, we find Brude Mac- Mailcon, the Pictish King, who had his seat on the
1See the full Gaelic version of this tale (by Mr Alex. Carmichael) in Transactions of Inverness Gaelic Society, Vol. XIII.
2 The legendary origin of the name of Loch Ness must not be accepted seriously. The true origin will be discussed in a subsequent chapter. The Children of Uisneach, however, who gave many place-names to the district of Loch Etive, appear also to have been associated with the district of Loch Ness. In Deirdire’s Lament for Alba, Naois and herself are thus referred to :— He sent to her a frisking herd— A wild hind and a fawn at its foot ; And he went to her on a visit As he returned from the host of Inverness.
—Transactions of the Gaelic Society of Dublin (1808) ; Translation in Highland Monthly for July, 1890.
8 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON.
banks of the river Ness, at war with the Dalriad Scots, a Gaelic race, whom he defeated in 560 ; and St Columba at war with paganism at Brude’s court, and preaching the gospel in Airchartdan— the first glimpse we get of the name of our Parish.1 Columba’s story will be told in a future chapter. Brude died about 584, and for generations after his death his successors maintained a hard struggle for existence—sometimes fighting with their old enemies of Dalriada ; sometimes engaged in inter necine feuds with Pictish claimants to the crown ; and, latterly, involved in frequent trouble with the fierce Norse Vikings, who had begun to ravage and lay waste the Scottish shores. Suffering thus from within and without, the Pictish monarchy gradually declined, until, in 844, Kenneth Macalpin, King of the Scots, but in whose veins Pictish blood also flowed, placed the crown of Brude on his own head. He did not extirpate the Pictish nation, as historians have erroneously supposed. On the con trary, for half a century he and his successors were called kings of the Picts. The old race still survived, and the present inhabitants of the province, including the people of Urquhart and Glenmoriston, are their direct descendants—mixed with the Gael, and to a slight extent with the Norse and the Saxon. The Pictish tongue, however, which appears to have somewhat resembled the Welsh, gave place in course of time to its relation, the Gaelic language of the Scots—the result, mainly,
1 Adamnan’s Vita Sancti Columbæ III., c. xv.
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH. 9
of the influence of the Gaelic-speaking clergy of the Celtic Church.
Those Picts of Moray were deeply imbued with the spirit of liberty, and very stubborn was the fight which they made for their independence. Led by their own mormaors, or “ great-mayors,” they for many years struggled for freedom, not only against the Scots, who harassed their southern borders, but also against the Norsemen, who pressed hard upon them from the north. For a time they were forced to own the Norse sway ; but they threw off their yoke in the time of the Mormaor Finlay, who in 1020 was succeeded by his son, the famous Macbeth. The new mormaor at first allied himself with the Scottish King—the Gracious Duncan of Shakes peare—and made common cause with him against the powerful Norwegian Earl Thorfinn. In the end, however, he slew the King, and joined the Earl in partitioning the country between themselves. Mac beth took the crown and the territory of the dead King, leaving the province of Moray to Thorfinn, who became ruler of all Scotland north of the Grampians. The Moraymen repudiated the selfish arrangement, but it was only on Thorfinn’s death in 1057 that they were able finally to get rid of the Viking rule.
In connection with these events, tradition relates that Monaidh MacRigh Lochlainn—Monie, son of the King of Scandinavia—landed in Argyle with a large force, accompanied by his sister. His retreat to his ships having been cut off by the
10 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON.
natives, he was pursued northward through the Cale donian valley, until he reached Urquhart, where he made a stand on the high rock of Craigmonie, which is still crowned with the remains of ancient fortifications. There he and his companions bravely held their own for a time, his sister taking shelter in a crevice still known as Leabaidh-Nighean-an- Righ—the Bed of the King’s Daughter. Driven at last to the plain below, the Norsemen were forced to give battle, and were defeated with great slaughter. Monie escaped with his sister, but at Corrimony he was overtaken and slain. The people of the Glen took kindly to the hapless princess, and she lived among them for many a day.1
King Duncan left a son, Malcolm, called Ceann- mor, or Bighead, who, when he reached the years of manhood, resolved to wrest his father’s kingdom from Macbeth. His efforts met with success, and Macbeth lost his crown and his life in battle with him, in 1057. About the same time, Thorfinn died, and the province of Moray reverted to the rule of the mormaors, who assumed the style, and claimed the independence, of kings. But the covetous eye of Ceannmor was on the fair province. He invaded it in 1078, and, routing the forces of the Mormaor Maels- nectan—Ri Muireb (King of Moray) as he is called in the Annals of Ulster—annexed it to his crown. On
1 The Norse Sagas contain numerous instances of women accompanying the Vikings on their warlike expeditions. The place-names in the immediate vicinity of Craigmonie point to some conflict or conflicts of the past—Blair- na-Geilt, the Field of Terror ; Poll-a-Ghaorr, the Pool of Gore ; Lag-nan- Cuspairean, the Hollow of the Archers.
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH. 11
Malcolm’s death it again fell under the rule of the mormaors, and a long struggle for it began. In 1130 David the First defeated the Moraymen, and slew Angus their mormaor, and four thousand of their number. Ar fer Muriamh in Albain—the slaughter of the Men of Moray in Alban—are the significant words in which the Irish annals record the event.1
After this disaster, the Men of Moray not only owned David’s sway, but they also fought under his banner. In his war with King Stephen, they fol lowed him into England, and had the honour of fighting under his own immediate command at the Battle of the Standard.2 But they were submissive only so long as they were weak, and in 1160 they again measured swords with their old foes. The superior numbers of the Scots prevailed ; and Mal colm the Second, wishing to put an end for ever to the aspirations of the Moraymen, removed their principal men to other parts of his kingdom, and gave their possessions to loyal followers of his own. The pacification which he desired was, however, not yet possible. The old race still continued to dream of a separate independence, and new leaders arose to guide and direct them.
During the latter half of the twelfth century Urquhart appears to have been under the rule of one Conachar, or Ochonachar, a mighty man, who looms largely in the half mythical legends of our Parish. He is supposed to have been an Irishman
Annals of Innisfallen, in Chronicles of the Picts and Scots 170. 2 Hailes’ Annals
12 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON.
of the royal house of Ulster, and he probably received the Castle of Urquhart and the surround ing territory, which is said to have been previously possessed by Macraes and Macleans,1 as his reward for services rendered to the King in the war of 1160. To Conachar the families of Forbes, Mackay, and Urquhart still look back as their common ancestor ; and, in allusion to his wonderful feat of killing a wild boar of extraordinary fierceness and strength, the three families in after years adopted the boar’s head as their arms. Strangely enough, the legend of his adventure with the boar, which is referred to by a historian2 of the house of Forbes, in the seventeenth century, still survives in our Parish. Once upon a time, says this tale of the olden time,3 the Castle of Urquhart was occupied by a mighty man named Conachar Mor Mac Aoidh—Great Conachar, son of Aodh—who possessed a dog, which, on account of its extraordinary size, was known as An Cu Mor—the Big Dog. The Big Dog, when young, was fleet of foot and powerful of limb ; but age and its infirmities gradually overtook it, and at last it seldom moved beyond the walls of the Castle. Conachar desired to destroy the useless animal, but was prevented by an old woman, who
1 Rev. James Fraser of Wardlaw’s Chronology of the Bissets and Frasers of Lovat, MS. in Advocates’ Library.
2 Mr William Forbes, who states, in his Preface to Lumsden’s “ Houss of Forbes,” that Conachar “ killed a great boare, and he hade three sons, who were called the sons of him that killed the boare or the beast.”
3 See the full Gaelic version in the Author’s Legends of Glen-Urquhart : Transactions of Gaelic Society of Inverness, Vol. I. (1872).
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH. 13
said, “ Leig leis a’ chu : tha lath’ fhein a feitheamh air”—“ Let the dog live : his own day awaits him.” And so it did ; for on one of the days, as Conachar went forth to hunt, he was followed by the Big Dog, playful and nimble as in the days of its youth. The country was ravaged and ruined at the time by a wild boar, from which no man was ever known to have escaped alive ; and, ere Conachar had proceeded far, he was attacked by the fierce monster. Manfully though he defended himself, his spear fell harmless on his rough-skinned foe, and he would have been over powered had not the faithful Cu Mor joined in the combat. The struggle was long and terrible, but in the end the boar was slain. But, alas ! the dog also received its death-wound, and expired at its master’s feet. Conachar himself, thus saved by its devotion, lived for many a day. He and his sword lie beneath Clach-Ochonachair, at Innis-Ochonachair, in Urquhart.1
1 The Forbeses trace their descent from Conachar’s son, John, to whom King William the Lion granted the lands of Forbois, from which he took his surname [History of the House and Clan of Mackay, 27]. Conachar’s son Alexander, was employed by the same King to repel the Danes from Caith ness, and, having succeeded, received the territory of the vanquished, and became the first Chief of the Clan Mac-Aoidh or Mackay [History of Clan Mackay, 27 ; William Forbes’ Preface to “ Houss of Forbes”]. Archibald Grant, the Bard of Glenmoriston, sings—
“ Rugadh air a’ mhuir a’ cheud fhear
O’n do shiollaich Clann Mhic Aoidh—
Conachar mor ruadh o’n chuan.” That is, “ He was born on the sea from whom the Clan Mackay are descended— Great Conachar the Red, from the ocean.” The Urquharts are descended from another son of Conachar. The eccentric Sir Thomas Urquhart states, in his True Pedigree, that in B.C. 554 “ Beltistos married Thomyris. This Beltistos was surnamed Conachar, for which cause a certain progeny descended of him
14 URQUHART AND GLENMORISTON.
Notwithstanding the Plantation of Moray, as the removal of the native chiefs, and the settlement of strangers in their place, was called, the natives of Moray still continued to give trouble to the Scottish kings. They looked with no friendly eye on the recently established Romish Church and the feudal institutions which it found politic to foster ; and so freely did its possessions suffer at their hands, that Pope Innocent found it necessary, in 1215, to issue, from his far-off home on the banks of the Tiber, a special protection to several churches within the province. Among them was that of our Parish—Ecclesia de Urchard ultra Inuernys.1 The Pope invoked the curse of God, and of Peter and Paul, on such as disturbed the churches or their possessions ; but the Men of Moray cared for none of these things, and Zion was not yet to enjoy peace and felicity. In 1228, Gillespic MacScolane placed himself at the head of the disaffected, and in course of his career set fire to Inverness, burnt cer-
is till this hour called the generation of the Ochonachars, a race truly of great antiquity and renown in the dominion of Ireland. Beltistos founded the Castle of Urquhart above Innernasse [Inverness], which, being afterwards completed by his posterity, hath ever since been called the Castle Vicki- chonchar.” Nisbet, the antiquarian, states that a brother of Lord Forbes, “ having in keeping the Castle of Urquhart, took his name from the place ;” and William Forbes, in his Preface to the “ Houss of Forbes,” informs us that Conachar’s second son “ was called Urquhart, of whom is descended the Laird of Cromartie and the Urquharts ; and to testifie to all posteritie that they descended of him that killed the beast, they caused erect just the like monu ments at the Castell of Urquhart as is lying at Logie, which is yet to be seen there, as is alleadged.” It may be more than a coincidence that Inverness-shire contains an Urquhart and an Innis-Ochonachair ; Ross-shire an Urquhart and a Bad-Ochonachair ; and Fifeshire an Urquhart and a Kil-Conquhar (Cill-Conachar).
1 Registrum Moraviense, p. 43.
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH. 15
tain castles, which were then built of timber, and harried the lands belonging to the Church and the Crown. The King marched against him in person, without much effect ; but, in 1229, the insurgent chief and his two sons were treacherously slain by John Cumming, Justiciar or Chief-Justice of Scot land, who sent their heads to the King.1 The long struggle of the Men of Moray for liberty thus came to an end. Henceforth they dreamt no more of a separate independence.
Upon the suppression of the insurrection the old plan of bestowing the lands of the offenders upon loyal strangers was resorted to. Urquhart was granted to Thomas Durward,2 who possessed ex tensive estates in other parts of the kingdom, and who was appointed to the then high office of Sheriff of Inverness. He was succeeded by his son, Sir Alan Durward, Justiciar of Scotland, who, having married Marjory, an illegitimate daughter of Alexander the Second, entered into negotiations with the Pope to legitimate her, and from whom was descended Nicholas de Soulis, one of the claimants to the Crown after the death of the Maid of Norway. Sir Alan coveted and claimed a half davach3 of land in Urquhart, which belonged to the church of the Parish,
1 Fordun ; Hailes’ Annals.
2 The name was derived from the office of King’s doorward (ostiarius), which became hereditary in the family.
3 Glen-Urquhart consisted of ten davachs—deich dochan Urchudainn— which varied in extent. The word is derived from the Gaelic dabhach, a vat. Like boll, bushel, &c, it originally represented a measure of grain, and, also like those words, came in time to be applied to a certain extent of land—an extent, probably, sufficient to receive a dabhach of grain as seed. Certain fields in Urquhart are still called bolls.
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and the revenues of which were enjoyed by the Chancellor of Moray. William, the Chancellor, resisted the claim. Through the intervention of the Bishop, the quarrel was ended by a com promise, the terms of which were embodied in a Latin deed which does credit to the monkish lawyers of the period. “That noble man,” Sir Alan Durward, says this deed, after narrating the cause of the dispute—“that noble man, for the sake of peace, has given to the church of Urquhart half the lands claimed, namely, the half of the half davach which is called the half davach of the fore said church, in pure, free, and perpetual charity. But he and his heirs will possess the other half of the half davach in perpetual feu-farm, giving there for yearly to the church of Urquhart ten shillings, namely, five shillings at Pentecost [Whitsunday], and five shillings at the feast of St Martin [Martin mas] in winter next following. But further the said church of Urquhart will have one whole croft and one toft of four acres assigned to the said church near it, in a suitable and convenient place, in gift of the said noble man, in pure, free, and perpetual charity.” 1
1 Reg. Morav., 96. The lands in dispute were those of Achmonie, which originally extended from Drumbuie to Cartaly (Reg. Morav., 155). The part retained by the Church under this Agreement was Achmonie proper : the portion ceded to Durward was Culnakirk, which, at a later period, fell to the Crown, and was granted to John Grant of Glenmoriston in 1509. In 1557 Achmonie proper was sold to John Mackay. Latterly its revenues seem to have gone to the Bishop. The return made for lands held by the Church in pure charity (in puram eleemosynam) consisted of prayers and supplications for the grantor during his life, and masses for his soul after death. No pecuniary payments or military services were exacted.
OLDEN TIMES IN THE PARISH. 17
The deed was executed in March, 1233, and wit nessed by Gylleroch de Urchard and others.
Sir Alan Durward died in 1275 without male issue, and his estates were divided among his three daughters. His great rivals, the Cummings of Badenoch, seem soon afterwards to have obtained possession of Urquhart Castle and its domain, and to have retained it until the troubles that followed the death of King Alexander the Third.
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